Japan Day 5, July 7th

Last day in Nagoya, and certainly a memorable one. Most of the items on my to do list were completed, so the day was mostly focused on shopping and wandering. I was determined to find some good engrish t-shirts at yen=g, so we headed back to the Osu Kannon shopping area.

The men’s selection at yen=g was a bit lacking, especially of anything in engrish. I was able to find a few shirts I like and get away with them for only about $7 a shirt. Only wandering the shops later did I find some good engrish at LAX clothing outlet. The summer sale means prices are low and options good. I snatched up instantly a shirt that read “Where does love come?” and I lament not buying a shirt that read “I We’ll show us them all” I saw as I exited the store. There’ll be plenty of time to engrish hunt later in my travels.

After shopping, we ate lunch at Kana’s cousin’s pizzeria / tratorria. He recently competed in an Italian pizza competition and came in third. from the three course meal, including two pizzas, I can say that he deserved a higher ranking. This pizza could hold its own and wreck some places in North Beach. While we ate, Kana and I discussed languages, and how we both wish we more of the other’s respective native langauge. She then taught me two phrases I requested. “Shinu made ni nihonjin no you ni nihongo wo hanashimasu,” before I die I want to speak Japanese like a Japanese person and “Koko ni surette kitte kurutte arigatou gozaimasu,” thank you for bringing me here. I’m doing pretty good with remembering these phrases, so it seems I learn Japanese best while eating and waiting for a good meal. I think I have a new study plan.

Finishing our meal, we embarked for Sakae, the upscale shopping and night life area. Sakae is like any other downtown shopping area in Japan, and reminds me a lot of Yamagata and parts of Shibuya. Nothing too exciting, and after walking around a bit we had enough. Given the heat and the four hours of walking we were ready for a break. We stopped off at a chocolate store on our way to the subway, and made our way back to the hotel for a brief nap.

Having finished all the main to do’s on my list, the rest was of no consequence. Lonely Planet had a glowing review for Heaven’s Door, “[B]y far Nagoya’s best bar,” so I wanted to check it out. We headed back to Sakae and made our way to where the bar was supposed to be. Kana led the way, and looked around, but couldn’t find it and quickly decided it wasn’t there anymore. Up to this point Kana took the lead on all of this, and I wasn’t ready to give up so quickly. We wandered a little bit, asked someone, returned to the original place, and I stopped to read my directions and the description. Kana was upset that I didn’t trust her that the bar wasn’t there anymore, but it wasn’t that I didn’t trust her, more that I wanted to be sure for myself. In the end, she was right. The bar closed down, as happens often with business in Japan and two year old travel guides. I made my apologies, and we took a brief walk around Sakae’s central park and entertainment districts.

We returned to Nagoya Station, both a bit hungry. Kana actually asked me earlier if I was hungry, and I was not. I think she was and it was her polite way of saying so, but after saying I wasn’t she refused to eat unless I said I was hungry too. She asked what I wanted to eat, and it took a while to convince her that I wanted whatever she thought was best. The authentic, Kana experience in Nagoya.

The destination took a twenty minute walk to an out of the way yakitori izakaya parallel to the train tracks. I suggested a few bits I would like, but for the most part forced Kana into the driver’s seat for ordering. Everything was delicious, with a large range of chicken parts, pork, beed and some veggies. We shared a bottle of sake and relaxed, talking about the our time and I thanked Kana profusely with the new Japanese I had learned. I asked Kana about the name of the restaurant and it’s meaning. The name she was able to tell me, but the meaning she didn’t know. She was curious, but didn’t want to ask the owner, so she forced me to ask him. She taught me how in Japanese “Omise no onamae no imi wa nan desu ka?” What does the name of this restaurant mean? Towards the end of our meal, I thanked the chef/manager and asked him. Kana was used as a translator, as he explained that the name is a Okinawan phrase roughly translating to “Upon this, our first novel meeting, we have become like brothers.” The sentiment is similar to ichigo ichie. The conversation grew from there, and began to encompass the table next to us. The chef explained that this July 7th was a full moon, and legend has it that July 7th marks the meeting destined by the twins of the star festival. The moon is an opening, a gateway to the heavens, and this opening of the heavens on a day of destiny happens only once every hundred years.

For Christmas, my mother gave me a nice, small note book that I brought on this trip with the resolve that any new friend or acquaintance I met should sign it and write something. Kana was kind enough to ask the chef to write something for me, and I now have a very nice message from him. As we departed (we closed out the restaurant) the chef and staff thanked us, and requested I suggest his restaurant to anyone I know coming to Nagoya. I certainly intend to.

A fun and unique night like I couldn’t have anywhere else, this is what I hoped for this vacation. That is exactly what I had. Returning to the hotel, I asked Kana to write a message in the notebook before I left the next day. As my time in Nagoya comes to a close, I feel both excited and remorseful. The one thing I do not feel is regret. I could not have a better time than this past three days.

Japan Day 4, July 6th

The only upside to rain is it breaks the humidity. For the first time since coming to Japan I was able to sleep in. That’s probably from the exhaustion of heat and walking for five hours. Grabbing an onigiri and an umbrella we set up our plans for the day. Rain can’t stop shopping, so we set off for the Osu Kannon temple and the surrounding shops.

Approaching the grounds I could hear chanting from the Osu Kannon temple. Granted, I was able to hear it because they pipe it through loud speakers on both ends of the building. And I’m half convinced it’s a recording they made several years ago and just play on a loop. In any case, it still adds a level of ambiance that’s rather novel. Kana made an offering at the temple, and made a short prayer for a family member who’s taken ill. We both lit some incense and inhaled its scent before proceeding to the long shopping complex.

While rain can’t stop shopping, scheduling can. Kana and I both failed to remember that since Saturday and Sunday are both big shopping days many stores are closed on Monday. This includes yen=g (think dollar a pound clothes shopping.) We resolved to head off to Tagata-jinja, rather than waiting to go tomorrow.

Tagata-jinja is a shrine to Izunagi, the father god of Shinto. Drops from the tip of his “spear” created the many islands of Japan. As such, he is seen as a god of fertility. In short, Tagata-jinja is the penis shrine. There are massive wooden penis charms, stone shaped like penises (some crafted some natural formations,) and massive wooden penis much larger than myself lain inside a shrine. I took many pictures, and grabbed a hold of the balls of romance and fortune. That’s not a metaphor. There are actual balls you grab meant to bring good luck and fortune.

The time was only 3pm when we finished at Tagata-jinja, so we opted for a temple trifecta and scurried off to Atsuta-jinja. While it’s not on display, this shrine holds one of the three sacred treasures that represents the emperor’s right to rule. The main building was under construction with a massive tarp covering it. As such I was unable to see it, but they were nice enough to have a painting of what the shrine looks like on the tarp. Kana told me a little of the history, and we wandered the forest surround in the temple. Trees there are over a millenia old, and due to the humid weather not only does moss grow on them, but grass as well. They look a bit like a green porcupine tree. There were also a number roosters wandering around just outside of the temple, as they are thought to bring good luck. Seems like I’m having a day full of cocks.

Kana and I took a few hours to rest up before heading out for the night. There were two bars on my list to visit in Nagoya, the first being Elephant’s Nest. We opted to walk, and finding our hunger growing, stopped into Yamachan, a chain yakitori restaurant famous in Nagoya. Kana was talking about how amazing their wings were, so we ordered a plate, along with some karage and assortment of small dishes. Everything was good, but the karage and wings were fucking amazing. If they opened up a Yamachan in the Bay Area they’d kill, and I’d be there at least once a week.

The food gave a good base for the drinks at Elephant’s Nest. The place is a British Pub like any other in Japan, but it has a nice design, good ambiance and friendly staff. Drinks are a little pricey though, at $8 for domestic beer and $10 for Guinness. Since Kana was paying for everything up to that point, including my rail fare, I insisted on paying for drinks. We relaxed and talked about her family and life in Nagoya before coming to America. As the night wore on she began to look a little sad.

When we started walking back to the apartment I could tell by the look on her face she was fighting with herself, as she often does. With a little prodding she told me that she knows she shouldn’t love me anymore because we broke up, but she does. She worries about when I start dating someone new and if she’ll be jealous. She doesn’t want that, and she doesn’t want to hurt anymore. I did my best to comfort her, but I think we both know this will take time. We’re certainly not out of the woods yet, but I plan on sticking to the road. At least the sadness was passing, and we were smiling and joking around agan before we arrived at the hotel.

Japan Day 3, July 5th

A quick packing of my bag, bite to eat from the convini and I set off for Nagoya via shinkansen (bullet train.) Though I woke up early I spent a bit of time writing entries and sending e-mails, so I didn’t depart from Tokyo station until quarter after eleven. Since Kana was expecting me at the station around one, I rushed to the first train destined for Nagoya. What I didn’t realize was I boarded the super fancy super express Nozomi train, the only train my rail pass doesn’t cover. I realized this just before the conductor came around to collect tickets, and I was able to explain my mistake. The merciful conductor allowed me to change trains at the next station with no extra charge.

Kana met me at the gate and instantly wrapped her arms around me. The soccer season meant that the Nagoya Hilton was booked solid, so she wasn’t able to get us a discount room. She booked us a small room in a hotel right outside of the station instead. When I say right outside, I mean literally. You exit the station, walk ten feet and you’re there. It wasn’t anything fancy, but it was nice and convenient. And air coniditioned. That’s an important one.

Kana suggested a local specialty for lunch: Miso-katsu. We went to a popular chain famous for its excellent miso-katsu, and it did not dissappoint. We shared a sampler plate and a salad that was more than enough food for the both of us. Kana refused to let me pay, as would become the theme for my stay in Nagoya. After cleaning up for the mea we departed for Nagoya Castle.

One of the amazing thing about Japanese castles and major shrines are the immensely beautiful parks and gardens built around them. To get to the castle we had to take a walk around the park the long way. The park lends to excellent views of the castle at all angles, but all in all it looks like any other Japanese castle. Cool nonetheless. Kana also took me to her favorite place in the park, and tried to explain to me what it looks like during cherry blossom season. While I imagine it to be very beautiful, words can only pale in comparison to it’s actual vision.

We returned to Nagoya station as the castle grounds close at 5, and I asked Kana to show me around Nagoya’s station area. We wandered a bit, the streets empty despite it being a Sunday. Everyone probably rocked too hard during the day. I regretted not bringing my camera when we passed through the section of old restaurants and homes. The quaint atmosphere accented by cascading street lamps on this hot and quiet night was a sight to behold. There’s also something about the high rises in Nagoya that makes them seem larger than Tokyo or New York. Nagoya is a little more spread out, and their large building generally take up a full city block along with twenty or more stories. The combination makes them seem absolutely massive.

On the walk back from downtown to the hotel, we took a brief stop to sit and rest. I noted how Nagoya reminded me of Boston in many ways, and we reminisced about Kana’s visit there. I asked Kana a question I should have asked long ago: why she decided to move to America. America wasnt her first choice. England was, but it was too expensive, and then Australia, but she didn’t know anyone there and the economy wasn’t welcoming foriegners. Since she had a friend in San Francisco and there are many good programs to study English, she chose to go there. Initially intending to study English for a year, and then decide on the future afterwards. Essentially, looking for a little bit of vacation and a little bit of change. Not terribly different than what I’m doing now.

Exhausted and still a bit jetlagged, I convinced Kana we should call it a night, despite it only being ten. I was worried how things would be with Kana while I visited. So far everything seems to be working out. Kana appears happy and we are both having fun. There are no problems or awkwardness. Maybe this freinds thing will work after all.

On the Neighborhood

I’ve already mentioned that Nishi-Funabashi and Chiba in general reminds me of Cambridge. There’s a moderately paced city vibe about the area, and while it’s close enough to anything you’d want to do, it’s quiet enough and not in the middle of everything. There’s some decent shopping and restaurants, but the night life isn’t much to talk about. You can easily hop a train dowtown to Shinjuku for the good bars and clubs.

The more I think about it, if I were to live in Japan this is the area I would probably want to live in. There are a lot of realty places in this neighborhood, and the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Part of the upside of not actually being in Tokyo, but close enough so head into it on a lark. 1 bedroom places go from anywhere between $700 to $1200 a month. 2 and 3 bedrooms aren’t that much more, either. Several 2LDKs (2 bedroom living room dining room kitchen) go for about $900 to $1400, and 3Ks or 3LDKs for about $1000 to $1800. If I found a roommate I could live in “Tokyo” (technically it’s Chiba, but on the border of it) for almost half of what I pay in Berkeley. Most of the places listed are near train stations as well, so bonus points for that. I still have no plans for moving here, but it’s something to keep in mind.

Japan Day 2, July 4th

The one thing I like about jetlag is it gets me to go to sleep and wake up at a decent hour. I woke up a little before six, and Nick was still fast asleep. I decided to go for a walk around the neighborhood, and find a convenience store to get some breakfast from. I found one easily, along with a 24 hour Jean’s Mate (clothing store) and a CD/DVD rental store. I don’t know any clothing store would need to be open 24 hours, but Jean’s Mate actually has some good shirts at reasonable prices, so I may buy some when I return to Tokyo from my traveling.

I spent a chunk of the morning in the common area, sorting out my travel plans and writing out my prior blog post while I waited for Nick to wake up. I met a number of his co-tenants at this time, including one very nice woman named Saya. She was a bit shocked to see a foriegner she didn’t recognize, so I explained to her that I was Nick’s freind visiting from America, and then joked with her about being surprised. Later, after Nick had woken up and we had eaten an early lunch, went about the task of trying to track down my rental cellphone. Nick and I had trouble making heads or tails of the missed delivery notices, and couldn’t understand the automated message when we called the delivery company. We able to enlist Saya’s help, and learn that Nick entered the phone number wrong which was why we couldn’t contact the company before. Through a discussion with the delivery company that was confusing even for the native Japanese speaking Saya, we were eventually able to schedule an evening time delivery window.

The necessary tasks taken care of, Nick and I headed off to Odaiba, with a lay over in Akihabara. We had three goals in Akihabara: find a three prong to two prong plug converter, find an SD card for Nick’s laptop, and find Super Potato, the retro video game store. We were able to complete the first two tasks with ease. As for Super Potato, we wandered the streets and alleys for about three hours with no luck. We first discovered Super Potato by accident a little over a year ago. We heard the sound of Koopa Castle music from Super Mario Brothers, and followed it down a random alley way to the store like sailors to a siren’s song. I couldn’t for the life of me tell you how to get there again, and as were unable to find it, I am convinced it’s a bit like Brigadoon, appearing out of the mist every five years.

We made our way to Odaiba, with the goal of seeing the giant Gundam statue. It was immediately apparent that Odaiba is the unintentional America Town, putting Osaka’s America-mura to shame. It’s not just the Eddie Bauer, or California style beach mall filled with burger joints and other American stores. It’s the 1/5 scale model statue of the Statue of Liberty that’s really the kicker. I shit you not. The put a Statue of Liberty on the island. The Gundam statue itself is pretty cool, about two or three stories tall. But all of the photos make it seem absolutely massive, and t’s not as impressive as the hype. I still want one, though.

Searching for dinner in the California style strip mall we stumbled upon a Tex-Mex place. This is the part where I mention that Nick has been dying for Mexican food for over a year now. The place we themed like an old mine, with waitresses dressed in short shorts and plaid shirts. One even had a cowboy hat. The food was pretty good, though small portions and a little pricey. Still, it’s good to have the variety. I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s hard to find anything outside of Japanese and Italian food in Japan.

We spent the rest of the night at the guest house waiting for the cellphone to arrive, coming of course at the last minute. I was a bit nervous that it wouldn’t come, but when the deliver man finally came at 8:50pm, I was very relieved. Starving from the wait, Nick and I hit up a local ramen shop, watched some South Park and called it a night.

Japan Day 1, July 3rd

It feels surreal to be back in Japan. The feeling hit me as the train pulled out of Narita station and went above ground. Everything here is so vibrant, lush and green. Even in this overcast weather, it feels as if the sun is brighter and everything is saturated with color and life. Even the people seem to be healthier both physically and mentally than what I am accustomed to (though personal experience has taught me this isn’t true, but simply part of appearances.) For the first time in months I’ve felt the double pull of longing; the feeling that I want to be in two places, San Francisco and Japan, at the same time. There are aspects of each I miss when I am away from them, and my heart belongs to each of them.

The flight over was unquestionable the best I’ve ever had. The departure was delayed an hour, seats were cramped, the food was terrible and the movies unwatchable, but I had good company. I spent around eight houts of my ten hour flight talking / flirting with this cute and charming happa (half Romanian, half Japanese) girl named Marina. She’s spending two weeks visiting her family in Osaka, and I’m amending my plans to visit her for a day or two before she leaves on the 15th. It’s not many people I click with so easily.

My friend Nick and I planned to meet up at five, but because of the delay I was running late. I needed to call him from a pay phone at Funabashi station to rearrange the meet up, which was an adventure in its own right. I was unable to find a pay phone by looking around, so I asked a woman who worked at the nearby pharmacy. A moderate, winding walk away I found the pay phone, right where she said it would be. Unfortunately, the pay phone only accepted calling cards and not coins. So I walked back to the pharmacy and ask if they sold calling cards. They did not. I was directed to a convenience store a short walk away. I was able to buy a calling card there, but as calling cards are something of a collector’s item in Japan I went through a slightly elaborate selection process. I then walked back through the winding hallways to the phone and called Nick.

Nick’s place is a guest house in Nishi-Funabashi, and is best described as a Japanese take on American college dorms sans the immaturity and disrespect. His room makes college dorm rooms look small, but it’s nice enough and I fit on the floor comfortably. The area has a city suburb feel to it, like Cambridge does to Boston, and the people he lives with are rather nice and friendly. We spent most of the evening catching up, and me questioning what it would like if I had stayed in Japan after my first contact. Nick has a set up for himself here, though I don’t think it’s one I would want for myself. I feel pretty settled in the Bay Area, though I’ll always miss aspects of Japan. What I really need is a 3 month timeshare somewhere just outside of Tokyo.

Swank

So I’ve set up almost all of my places of lodging now. I still have to find a place for Yamagata, and Nick, my friend and former coworker, is booking a cheap hotel he knows for our stay in Osaka. Otherwise, I’m staying mostly at hostels, because they’re cheaper. They’re also a great way to meet people.

I struck the jackpot in Nagoya though. Kana, my ex, has a friend who works at the Nagoya Hilton. She was able to score a room for 3500 yen rather than the regular rate of 9800.

You just have to love the friends and family discount.

Bitches Are Really Tripping

I just learned that the BART (San Francisco’s subway) employees are slated to strike on July 1st. My flight is on July 2nd. This is a problem, because I planned on taking BART to the airport. It was basically my only option. Given how touch and go BART can be sometimes anyway, I’m not going to trust it or any alternatives they set up to get to the airport while they strike.

It’s quite a long ways from Berkeley to SFO. Taxi would cost about $100+. All my friends with cars are going to have to be at work when I need to get to the airport.

My sister suggested and airport shuttle. It costs $30 more than BART would, but it will actually get me there. Super Shuttle it is. This will be my first time using an airport shuttle service, so fingers crossed.

Also, and I’m going to preface this with I love and support unions and their right to strike. But BART employees, striking because you don’t approve of a plan to reduce your already insanely good benefits and healthcare packages, with no layoffs or salary cuts during a massive recession? Cuts made in addition to a fare hike all so that the BART doesn’t collapse financially? You don’t like it? Boo hoo TOUGH SHIT. Times are tough, but you still have jobs. Cushy ones with big pay for not so complex work. Take the hit with an option to renegotiate in 6 months so you can get your old packages back if the economy improves. You want to shut down the only public transportation system for crossing the East Bay and the system used by thousands of people whose jobs already hang in the balance? Do it over something respectable you greedy bastards.  You give a bad name to unions everywhere.

The background

In the summer of 2007 I began working a position in Japan. Going to Japan had long been a dream of mine, a dream I never thought I would realize. Like many foreigners in Japan, I worked as an Assistant Language Teacher. Unlike many foreigners in Japan, I lived in the remote region of Yamagata. In a city of 200,000 people, there were 30 foreigners. Yamagata is not what you’d call “diverse.” However, the area was beautiful and the people some of the nicest I have ever known.

I did a great deal of traveling. Four visits to Tokyo, two visits to Osaka, two visits to Kyoto, one visit to Sendai. They were always a bit to brief, generally under the confines of money or time. Working in Japan meant I couldn’t buy a rail pass, and also having to keep in mind when to return for work as well as budget. I longed to have a chance to visit many more parts of Japan, and leisurely explore.

At the end of my contract I opted not to renew and to return to the United States. San Francisco to be exact. For the past year I have worked at a tech firm under a contract with the hopes of being hired permanently. Sadly, that will not come to pass. As of July 1st my contract ends and I become unemployed.

Counter-intuitively, this is a good thing in many ways. A friend and former coworker has encouraged me to visit for quite some time now. He has vacation in July, so we’ll be doing a bit of traveling together. My most recent ex,  a native Japanese woman, will be in Nagoya during my stay.  I have a good deal of savings, flights to Tokyo  are cheap in July, I can stay with my friend in Chiba and travel for cheap on a J-Rail pass.  I’ve been able to put together an extensive month long trip to Japan that would normally cost around $8,000 for a little under $2,000. I will travel to destinations I missed before, visit my friends, my students and former coworkers  across Honshuu all while taking a leisurely vacation.

I’ve already fulfilled my dream of going to Japan, but I left feeling there was something left unfinished. I’ve been granted the chance of a life time. From July 2nd to August 4th I will take the trip to Japan that I have always longed for. Now I’m just counting down the days.